Organic wine?

Organic wine? What nouveau decadence will they think of next, you wonder? But oenophiles (wine lovers) could tell you that chemical-free cabernet and pesticide-free pinot aren’t new concepts at all. In fact, some of the world’s top wineries have been producing organic wines for decades. They just haven’t told anyone about it.

Reading the labels at a liquor store may not give you the full picture of what goes into (or what doesn’t go into) producing a particular wine. Modern winemaking techniques can depend heavily on chemical agriculture. Up to 17 applications of herbicides, fungicides and pesticides can be added to vines during the growing cycle, depending on factors such as location and climate. (These synthetic chemicals not only strip the soil, destroy ecosystems, pollute the environment and contaminate waterways, but they can also be ingested as residues, accumulating in the body over time to cause numerous neurological problems, poor organ function and even cancer.) In conventional winemaking, after the grapes are picked and bottling begins, one or more additives–up to 20 of them–may be utilized to improve taste, colour and clarity.

Organic wine, on the other hand, is harvested and bottled using the most natural methods and ingredients possible. At its simplest, organic wine is defined as "wine made from organically grown grapes." Grape species are usually chosen for better disease resistance and character, rather than maximum yield. Using pesticides or herbicides is a big no-no; the only allowable fertilizers are mature plant manures, which are sometimes combined with vine prunings. Artificial yeasts are avoided during the fermentation process in favour of wild yeasts that form naturally on the grapes. While all wines depend on sulphur dioxide for stability, organic wines contain far less.

Some producers with an eco-conscience, such as Jean-Pierre Margin of Chateau La Canorgue in France’s C? de Luberon, have gone organic to follow in the footsteps of their ancestors, who created superb wines by combining traditional techniques and the skills of their cellar masters.

"Confronting nature directly means you have to be vigilant,"said Margin in a recent interview with wine critic Gerald Asher. "You must look ahead–mistakes are difficult to correct organically. You become more efficient because you have to stay on top of every detail of every vine–and perhaps that’s why the wine is better."

For a brief stint in recent history, wine has been valued for its effect on health, but around 450 BC, Hippocrates touted specific wines to treat fever, disinfect wounds and as diuretics. Up until the 18th century, wine was a safer drink than water, which was unsanitary and filled with pathogens.

Modern research has shown that this fruit of the vine–when consumed in moderation–may protect against heart disease and some forms of cancer. Wine contains catechins, also known as flavonoids, which act as antioxidants and prevent free radicals from damaging cells. Resveratrol and quercetin are two other substances found in red wine that have been shown to boost the immune system and block cancer formation.

People in southern France typically eat a diet high in fat, yet they suffer from lower rates of heart disease than other countries. Scientists partly attribute this so-called "French paradox" to the effect of the wine they drink. According to findings published in the January 2000 issue of European Heart Journal, wine dilates the arteries and increases blood flow, thereby lowering the risk of clots that can damage the heart muscle and cause strokes.

More research tops off the glass–Wine appears to boost levels of "good" HDL cholesterol and prevent "bad" LDL cholesterol from damaging arteries. The drink’s phenols may slow the growth of breast cancer cells. Red wine may help prevent oral cancer. Moderate drinkers have greater bone mineral density than non-drinkers. (No study needed to show us that a glass of wine with dinner can be a great de-stresser.)

But wine isn’t a panacea. Overindulgence in any form of alcohol turns a good thing bad, and can cause or contribute to serious health problems including nutritional deficiencies, liver disease, damage to the internal organs, early menopause or menstrual irregularities, brain injury, impotence, sterility and immune depression. 

Juan Luis Barrera Portillo
@ByPecowines
barrerayportillo@gmail.com
Canary Wharf - London